Airline Wines: Service is good and the price is right

On my way back from Indiana, American Airlines was kind enough to provide tastings of a few onboard wines. The Callaway California Merlot, Cellar Selection Vintage 2006, 13.5% alcohol, proved much more drinkable than the aroma first emanating from that teensy apĂ©ritif glass which the airline uses. Grapes sourced from Monterey and Lodi are aged in French and American oak for between 3-6 months, says the back label. Chilled by airline storage, it took a while to open up (as much as a red will open up with a 2" glass aperature…). Yes, there is a bit of vanilla in this wine per the label and it is wonderfully clean with moderate tannin. Nice selection. I really enjoyed the label notes too, good job Callaway! They give kudos to their guiding winemaker Robert Pepi, noting that he pioneered the "Two Heart Canopy" trellising system. It's good to see vineyard practices like this noted; having sat in on two horticultural congresses recently (Kentucky and Indiana), I know these guys are unsung heros all too frequently. The flight attendant pointed out the saying printed on the cork (which almost obscured the fact that they are using a less expensive 1+1 instead of a full cork…) and that was "Water separates the people of the world, wine unites them". A comment particularly appropro of the coming water wars as California faces a HUGE drought this next season. Price: two upgrade coupons IND to DFW. www.aa.com

Indiana Wines make Going Back-Home-Again a Real Treat

I'll be posting lots more about the Indiana wine industry, but here's a start. There was much to learn about wines from my home state, and the wine industry that's building as fast as Obama shoots hoops (after all, basketball is the official religion in the Hoosier State...)

At Butler Winery, a few miles east of Oliver, I spent a pleasant hour visiting with winemaker Jim Butler and his wife Susie in their tasting room. Jim spent 5 years as the winemaker at Oliver before establishing his own vineyard in 1982. Along with oldest son John, he's the author of the book "Indiana Wines". I tasted their Chambourcin 2005, which won a silver medal at the 2007 Indy International Competition. This is a popular grape for Midwestern wines; it ripens in late September which provides some protection from the hot humid sun of Central Indiana summers and allows winemakers to harvest before too much predation from deer takes place. This lovely wine is barrel aged for six months in American oak barrels, and is light and refreshing. $15.95. Their Chambourcin 2006, Jim believes, has excellent aging potential and tasting notes indicate aroma of pear and spice with tones of dark cherry and raspberry. He suggests pairing with lamb, beef and game. $17.95.

The Butler wine which I took home to my brother's table in Indianapolis was their Indiana White, a superb value of a versatile table wine, comprised of Indiana Uplands Vignoles fruit (25%) and Cardonnel (75%). Tasting notes indicate flavor and aroma of peach and nectarine, but those are faint enough to not overwhelm a clean tasting table white. $11.95. The Butler Indiana Red is made from Indiana Uplands Chambourcin grapes from the 2007 harvest, which Jim describes as a "wonderful Chambourcin harvest." At 10.5% alcohol, this red has aroma and taste of cherry that is not overwhelming, and makes a very presentable table red. $11.95

If you don't wind through the back roads from Oliver to Butler Winery, don't fret. You can visit one of their satellite tasting rooms in Bloomington (where Indiana University is located) or Chesterton, Indiana. Butler Winery is a family enterprise through-and-through, so you'd meet more of the family at these tasting rooms too.
www.butlerwinery.com

When I drove up north from Kentucky, the first winery I visited in my home state of Indiana was Oliver Winery, located in Bloomington, Indiana, just a few miles north of Indiana University's campus. This is the oldest and biggest winery in Indiana. Featuring a tasting room and shop with food-for-picnic items and wine-related merchandise, this tasting room can accommodate a large crowd. I enjoyed their Marechal Foch Nouveau 2008, which is an estate bottled wine from their own Creekbend Vineyard. On the nose, it has a strong berry, and upon tasting, a hint of cranberry. 10% alcohol. Tasting notes describe it as "fresh, fragrant and flavorful. Everything a nouveau should be. A delicious match with pork." $12/bottle www.oliverwinery.com

Kentucky Wines running a Great Race!

It's not just all about bourbon in Kentucky -- there is more and more buzz about the fine wines that come from this growing region. That was part of what I learned from sitting in on several sessions at the 2009 Fruit and Vegetable Conference and Trade Show held in early January in Lexington Kentucky. (My thanks to my industry friends who tipped me off to this event... because, yes, wines are a fruit-based product, but who woulda thunk there'd be so much great info on Kentucky wines at this event! Hats off to the organizers!)

First, you should know that there is a wonderful map that will guide you to 34 Kentucky wineries that's available from www.kentuckywine.com ; I particularly liked the fold-out pocket size format, and the grid that shows distances between wineries which helps you plan your travel quite efficiently . The website has several useful features too, including some historical background. Here's a bit:

"Kentucky has ideal temperatures and climate for growing well-balanced grapes like those grown in the noble regions of France and Italy. The region's early settlers knew this. In 1798, a European settler named Jean Jacques du Four planted the first Kentucky Vineyard. Many European immigrants planted extensive vineyards in Kentucky. In fact, the first commercial vineyard was started in Kentucky, and backed by money from several prominent statesmen, including Henry Clay. By 1870, Kentucky was a leading wine producer, producing more than half the nation's output at that time."

The website talks about wandering through vineyards .... but in early January, you'd better have winter coats and cozy boots on! Still, visiting the wineries is fun. I visited Wight-Meyer, a bit south of Louisville, and I had a warm welcome from winemaker Jim Wight.

Wight-Meyer's wines were among those presented at the Kentucky wine tasting part of the convension, and Jim Wight is justly proud of the medals his wines have won at the 2008 and 2007 Indy Commercial Wine Competitions. We had a few bottles of our favorites shipped to us after visiting his fastidious and growing facility. Jim's personal favorite is the Kentucky Norton Reserve, which uses only Kentucky grown Norton grapes, and is barrel aged for 27 months. $18.99 at the vineyard. I agree, it's a terrific wine, with nice hint of cherries and a tone of vanilla.

To finish off a dining experience, it would be hard to equal the taste pleasureof the Wight-Miller semi-sweet wine, Vingoles, which won a Silver 2008 medal in the Indy competition. Jim's tasting notes just about wrap it up: tastes of apricot and pear with a clean citrus finish, with 2% residiual sugar. $12.99 at the vineyard.

Sadly, Wight-Miller is sold out of their Winter Solstice dessert wine. It was made from concentrated Diamond grapes from his vineyard, and fermented it super-sweet. It won a Gold at the 2008 KY competition. Try to get the next year's before it sells out. At $30 per bottle, the 2008 was no doubt worth every penny.

In talking about packaging and production (my professional interest), Jim is a big believer in using hybrid barrers, which feature American oak stays (sides) and French oak heads (top,bottom). The American oak stretches the phenols out, he believes, and the French oak contributes a great oakiness that's hard to beat. They source attractive labels from Innovative Label Solutions. Jim pays close attention to sanitation and to the technical aspects of his winemaking, as behooves a fellow with an electrical engineering degree; his day job is working in the missile systems division of Raytheon. For more info, see www.wight-meyervineyards.com

I didn't get to Elk Creek Vineyards for an on-site tasting of wines and crushpad tour at this biggest winery in Kentucky. Owner Curtis Sigretto is known for his hospitality, and he's built a beautiful facility including a lodge with spa treatments available, and a world class tasting room. Their first estate wines are an Estate Cabernet Franc and and Estate Chardonnel -- both grapes that do very well in the Kentucky terrior of the northern Kentucky river region where Elk Creek is located. The winery has an upcoming "Cooking with the Stars" event, so be on the lookout for it. For more info, see www.elkcreekvineyards.com

When oh When to Drink the dusty bottles in my wine rack? Wineries' responses and response times. Summary: somewhat disappointing response times!

What’s an ignorant wine drinker to do? I tried using some of the internet’s vintage guides to answer my questions as I dusted off my wine rack, but those guides simply weren’t satisfactory. Either that, or I fear that I’d waited too long to open those bottles. So I resorted to the winery websites for information, and it’s a good thing I wasn’t needing decision-support for a dinner party later that day… because ONLY ONE winery of the three I reached was “on top” of the customer service question.

Now, I know that this isn’t exactly a representative sampling and that the results of this survey are not statistically significant at the 98% percentile of certainty, but still ... such customer service, and rapidly, is a function to which the wine industry needs to be attuned.


HATS OFF TO TOBIN JAMES!

Original question: sent at 9 a.m. on a Monday morning to info@tobinjames.com:
SUBJECT: When to drink your 2000 syrah silver reserve
MESSAGE: I've had this bottle for a while and wondring how much longer I should
cellar it, or if I should drink it now. Thanks for your help!

RESPONSE TIME: 90 MINUTES
Thank you for your email. The 2000 Silver Syrah is a fabulous wine. I would
recommend drinking it. The 2000 Syrah should be drinking very nice now and
it will definitely hold for a few more years. I would love to hear how it
tastes.
P.S. If you decide to hold the bottle for a bit longer be sure it is
cellared properly.

Cheers,
Monica Martin, Manager
Tobin James Cellars
8950 Union Road
Paso Robles CA 93446


AND THEN, IN ADDITION TO A PROMPT RESPONSE, Tobin James provided even more superior customer service…
I wrote: Thank you for your speedy reply, and the responsible way in which you mentioned the need for proper cellaring. Do you have a resource that will help me understand what "proper cellaring" means for the everyday winedrinker who has less than 4 cases on hand? Thanks again!

Monica promptly replied: Barbara, The term proper cellaring is just keeping the bottle in a cool constant temp.

~~~~ a close second ~~~~~ Grgich Hills ! ~~~~~~~~~~~~

Original question: sent on Mon, Sep 29, 2008 at 8:50 AM to info@grgich.com
SUBJECT: question about your Napa Valley Chardonnay 2001 -- drink now or hold?
MESSAGE: I've had this bottle for a while now and wondering how much longer I should cellar it, or if it should be consumed now. Thanks for your help!

RESPONSE TIME: 23 hours
Hi Barbara,
Last year we opened some Chardonnay going back to the 1980's and most all of them were still excellent. That is kind of a long way of saying that you could drink it now and it would be wonderful or you could hold it for a couple of more years and it would still be good..

Cheers,
Bob During
Grgich Hills Estate
707.963.2784


~~oh my oh my~~~ya gotta do better than this, Frank Family! ~~~

Original question: sent on Monday, September 29, 2008 8:48 AM to info@frankfamilyvineyards.com
SUBJECT: question about your cab sauv Napa Valley from 1998
MESSAGE: I've had this bottle for a while now, and wondering if I should continue to cellar it, or should drink it now. Thanks for your help.

RESPONSE TIME: 4 days, 2.5 hours
Barbara,
You should drink it now. 98 was a year that should have been consumed a couple of Years back, hope it is okay. Do not decant, as this will age it even more…which you don’t want to do.
Sincerely, Rick

~~~~~~

Regardless, thanks to all the wineries for helping me along the path to more understanding of wines and their lifelines ... I appreciate it.

Carbon Footprint of Wine Stoppers

That fresh-tasting SOFIA Blanc de Blancs (2006) from Francis Coppola that my friends and I shared while watching the sun set over Napa from the perspective of Russian Hill in San Francisco ... perfect for celebrating the newly negotiated salary for my internet ad-sales friend. But, alas, as often happens when we gather around the wine bottles, we enjoy the product but I confess to prompting a deeper look at the package too. In this case, the cork stopper used for this sparkling wine. "Cork," said my neighbor, "what a wasteful product." It took about two minutes to remind her that 1) cork is renewable 2) cork is lightweight 3) cork implies a premium product 4) cork was the original and authentic wine stopper, used for centuries, and 5) cork has a far more favorable environmental profile than almost any other wine stopper. If "Lessened Carbon Footprint" is the object, than the plastic and aluminium screw top closures have a long way to go in matching cork's win-win in this area. This is not a rant, this is fact.

~ GLOBAL TRENDS IN WINE PACKAGING ~

This article was authored by the owner of this blog, and published in PACKAGING REVIEW - SOUTH AFRICA in the August 2008 issue, under the title "Wine Packaging Trends."

Wine packaging is primarily about the relationship that a wine farmer seeks to build with his customers – some call this “brand”. Regardless of brand equity built in the past, as markets and new clientele are developed, packaging must twist and turn to meet evolving consumer demands.

Today, nothing is as demanding as “green”. Wine packaging must take into account a growing locavore movement, with its vocal segment of consumers suggesting that buying local and transporting less is environmentally responsible. This goes beyond the now-customary “carbon footprint” concerns, and is a trend to watch.

Lighter weight bottles are coming to your winery soon. This is a major trend worldwide, and is reinforced by the fact that lighter packaging is also cheaper packaging – an important consideration for wine farmers who must contain costs without affecting product quality.

The UK program GlassRiteWine goes one step further than mere use of lighter weight bottles. Today, almost 200 million 75 cl glass bottles are filled in the UK with wine that has been imported bulk instead of being bottled at the source. . The second phase of this program will involve development and trial of lighter weight bottles for champagne and sparkling wines. Studies of PET alternatives are also under way.

The briefing on Environment and Ethical Issues found at http://www.wineintelligence.com/ displays a series of interesting charts, the results of studies that lead their analysts to conclude that “bag-in-box, cartons, plastic bottles and ring-pull cans all have image problems to address.” Yet, more and more wineries are bravely testing consumer reaction to these packages, and consumers are currently buying these wines for parties, picnics and informal meals at home. The history of packaging adoption shows that it is not a far reach from here to the formal meal and restaurant table.

Wine in flexible pouches is heralded as having up to 80% less of a carbon footprint than wine bottles. The Company of Wine People just launched its Arniston Bay pouched wine to the UK market, featuring Chenin Chardonnay and Pinotage Rose varietals in 1.5 liter pouches, with 250 ml pouches following on. Other lauded consumer benefits are ease of transport, and ease of storage in the fridge. Once opened, the wine is said to stay fresh for up to one month. These pouches are flexo printed and feature a low-profile press tap; the Saflite Packaging division of AstraPak Group is the manufacturer, and the packaging is designed to be export-sturdy.

Bag in Box wine is becoming more acceptable to consumers as packaging manufacturers have created films with excellent oxygen barrier protection to keep both wine quality optimal and, in conjunction with new dispensers, offer a differentiated, long life wine package.
One such example is the new Viniplus ™ bag-in-box wine tap designed and manufactured by Worldwide Dispensers. This tap provides easy one-handed dispensing, and no mess; the directional flow of wine from the box to the glass is excellent. The tap’s no-drip spout features a special valve that leaves the it clean and ready for the next pour. The total package provides over 100 days of shelf life extension.

In July 2008, Fairhills launched a range of wines in 100% recyclable bag-in-box. Their Pinot Grigio and Cabernet Sauvignon/Cabernet Franc moved to 1-liter bag-in-box for reasons of easy transport and convenient consumer storage. The wines stay fresh for up to nine months before use, and for up to two weeks after opening if they are then kept chilled in the ‘fridge. CEO of Fairhills wines, Bernard Fontannaz, lauded the lower carbon footprint that this package represents. “As the largest Fairtrade wine supplier in the UK we feel it is out duty to take environmental issues into account when packaging our wine,” he stated. The Fairhills project in South Africa is a joint venture between Origin Wines and the Du Toitskloof winery located in the Western Cape.

The marketing need for good presentation on the shelf and on the table brings the role of labels and closures to the fore. The story that labels tell to consumers is all-important, and wine label design must do this job. But increasingly, labels must perform yeoman duty: they must convey a sense of “place”, carry on a romance with the consumer, and yet meet all the varying requirements for home and export markets.

With increasing concern about alcohol content, label graphic designers must figure out ways to address this information need. Calorie counts may be the biggest coming attraction on the wine label. Both California and New York – trend-setting states for food and drink worldwide – have had legislation recently recommended that will require restaurants to post calorie counts on their menus. It is not a huge jump from a menu to a wine list, and from there you can expect pressure to list calories on your wine bottle labels.

Small leaflets and hang-tabs are starting to appear on bottles of wine at retail, with the intent of conveying more information for the wine-curious consumer. Look for increased use of these promotional techniques, as the real estate on both the front and back of bottle labels becomes more and more crowded, with content ranging from wine-food pairing suggestions, to philosophy of “organic” and “Biodynamic” production, to “Wineometers” depicting dryness/sweetness and full/light boded aspects of the wine.

The choice of wine bottle closures as an indicator of quality and value to a consumer, and as a protector of the lovingly produced contents, provides continuing controversy about cork type (100% cork, “technicals”, plastics, etc), and the merits of screw cap. There is no definitive answer on this packaging type and trend.

Recently, Dorothy Gaiter and John Brecher, wine writers for The Wall Street Journal, asked Lee Miyamura, the winemaker for Merdian, about their experience with screw cap. The writers had noticed that Meridian’s Chardonnay had a screw cap in the 2005 vintage and a cork in 2006. When they asked Ms. Miyamura about this, according to the article, “she told us that the winery test-marketed the screw cap in 2005 and encountered consumer resistance, so it went back to cork (albeit plastic) for 2006. That’s interesting in a world where more and more wines are being closed with screw caps.”

Stelvin has done an excellent marketing job in the wine industry. Their website is packed with
success stories and the proponents of screw cap are many. Cork producers seem to fight their own internecine wars, which is too bad because they need increased and coordinated industry-wide research to deal with the bugaboo of “cork taint”, or TCA.

Manufacturing processes like the DrasRed from ACI Cork and the super-critical carbon dioxide process used for Oeneo’s DIAM closures are making excellent progress in eliminating the TCA problem for winemakers.

It’s a difficult juggle. Sustainability, green, cost, consumer behavior, image, quality of product, shelf-space allocation, price, value, local, export…. the list of packaging decision-making considerations is long. The only sure thing is that next year, the list will be longer.

-end-


FOR MORE INFORMATION ON PACKAGES AND PROCESSES....

http://www.acicorkusa.com/ for more information on cork wine closures and DrasRed process
http://www.rapak.com for more information on bag-in-box wine packaging
http://www.stelvin.pechiney.com/index_en.html for more information on aluminum screw cap closures for wine
http://www.tcafreecorks.com/ for more information on Oeneo's Diam closures
http://www.wineintelligence.com/ for briefings on environmental and ethical issues in the wine industry

***


Disclosure: As part of my portfolio of writing and marketing communications skills, I also do press release writing for a few wineries and a few suppliers to the wine industry for pay. Parts of this blogpost originated as a press releases for Rapak and for ACI Cork.

~ CRITTER WINES AND CRITTER SHORTS ~

Critter wines and critter shorts! My head is swirling with the cross cultural implications of brand, design, edginess, aroma and association.

Fresh from a visit to the Dartmouth College campus in New Hampshire (oldest son just graduated with MBA from its Tuck School of Business), I heard otherwise sensible young professional men rhapsodize about a kind of pink slacks (Rhode Island Reds) that are considered the ultimate in outrĂ©, and then move through their imaginary closets (they’re all broke after 2 years at B-School and suits are on their minds) to the hanger holding the critter shorts.

Whaa…. ? Um, while at least they are khaki, and you can get them in ankle length too, but they do in fact have critters embroidered at their bottom hems. Crabs, lobsters, fish.

Juxtapose this to the comments from local San Francisco wine savant Chuck , who snorts, “Critter wines? Won’t even stock ‘em!”

Pay attention, label designers! Chuck is influential as buyer for the well known Jug Shop wine store on Polk Street in San Francisco. His chief problems (we should all have THIS one!) is that there are too many wines to taste in his everyday life, and too many wines to buys for all his loyal customers. So he has to make some cuts according to wine realities – and his observation of wine consumer behavior over the past several decades certainly constitutes an important part of wine reality.

A wine label with a cat on it – cheetah, tabby, leopard – evokes the aroma of wet cat, or worse, cat piss. This even before the wine is opened!

Running horses? Horse sweat. And ouch, did you scratch that horsefly bite again just now? Golden retriever? Musty dogs fresh from the lake, maybe even with a hint of bear scat (a favorite rolling-in-the-meadow substance). Birds? Do I really have to go back to the chicken coop days of my early farm upbringing? Snakes, alligators, reptiles, iguanas…oh my… just as bad as lions and tigers and bears! Beware!

Having said all this, I personally like all those Sebeka blends of pinotage plus plus that come out of South Africa, courtesy of a joint venture with Gallo. Great value. Lousy label. Time for a re-think, perhaps? If the ZA* wine industry wants to reinforce in global consumers’ minds that their wines are in fact from a New World* region but absolutely made in and Old World way and with classic taste and associated aroma, then let’s move away from the wildlife image stuff, and concentrate on telling the real story on the label.

*ZA = the suffix on almost all websites of companies located in South Africa. This comes from the old Dutch “Zuit-Afrika” and should remind us that vineyards were planted more than 350 years ago by the Dutch East Indies company when they established Cape Town as a re-supply station.

*New World = generally and loosely used to refer to wine growing regions south of the equator.

http://www.sebekawines.com/home.asp

http://www.thejugshop.com/