Richard Dare, guest columnist
The plan was flawless. The heist was perfect. The escape was clean. The only threat was the one they never saw
coming. This autumn, they’re not in it
for the pay. They’re in it for the
payback. Nicosia Wines (nicosiawines.com)
presents at the magical Culinary Loft (culinaryloft.com) in the heart of
Manhattan: Fondo Filara Frappato, Fondo
Filara Etna Rosso, Fondo Filara Cerasuolo di Vittoria Classico, and Sosta Tre
Santi Nero d’Avola in The Italian Job.
Deep in the heart of Sicily, generous
and untamed, labor Nicosia’s fine winemakers hidden in the shadow of a
ten-thousand foot high volcano, Mount Etna, that dominates the horizon just
behind their 115-year old winery in Trecastagni, Italy, nourishing the soil
with thousand year old ash. But this
taster thinks more than the volcanic soil, more even than the perfect goût de
terroir, is the skillful blend of Denominazione di Origine Controllata grapes Nicosia’s
five generations of family winemakers employ to infuse Nicosia’s full-bodied,
irrepressibly aromatic offerings with what can only be described as emotional
intensity worthy of a Sicilian. 
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Graziano Nicosia, fifth
generation winemaker
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Nicosia’s Fondo Filara Etna Rosso (13-14% alcohol vol.) is a skinnier wine for my taste, but still ruby red at $30-33 per bottle (retail price) and produces an intense bouquet with elegant hints of wild red fruit, spices and licorice. It’s dry, robust and lingering with a long and pleasant balsamic finish that seems a wonderful accompaniment to such first-course dishes as risotto, roasted and grilled meats, or semi-aged flavorful cheeses.
Their Fondo Filara Cerasuolo di Vittoria
Classico (13-14% alcohol vol.) is the color of cherries, also $30-33 per bottle
(retail price) and boasts a rich aromatic profile featuring hints of red
fruit. It’s warm with a smooth taste
would pair well with roasts, grilled meats, small game, and sharp and aged
cheeses—although to be fair I enjoyed it with a bit of Amedei chocolate from
Tuscany (70% cacao blend) which created a sort of multiplier effect bringing
the wine’s tannins to a luxurious effect (amedei.com).
And finally, Nicosia’s very satisfying full bodied Sosta Tre
Santi Nero d’Avola (12.5-13.5% alcohol vol.) grown on 25-year old vines and $40
per bottle (retail price) appears dark ruby red in the glass, with a typically
fruity aroma with touches of morello cherry.
The fruity aroma can be tasted in the mouth, warm and lingering, and would
prove an ideal accompaniment to many of the tastiest Italian recipes including
baked pasta with meat sauce or meat couscous, roasted game and aged cheeses. .jpg)
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The fine Nicosia presentation
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Don’t worry though, they’re hot on the trail of a distributor even as we speak. But until that deal is sealed, you’ll just have to take my word for how delicious and satisfying their wines really are!
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| The Culimary Loft, site of the Nicosia Wines event |
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Richard Dare is an author, cultural commentator and executive who enjoys fine wines and good food.
