Why Tasting Rooms should Charge Fees

I was visiting a small winery in the Sierra Foothills. I've come to appreciate the passion these winemakers put into their wines, and the sometimes-shoestring nature of their operations. As I pulled into the parking lot, a tour bus was pulling out.

"That was almost a waste of time," John the winemaker said. " Six passengers, one bottle of wine, one pair of earrings."

I did a quick calculation. Maybe a $30 sale. For which he'd poured 24 tastes, and received no revenue. And not even a fare-the-well for use of the picnic grounds and the multiple toilet flushes in the loo at 3400 feet when water is so doggone scarce up there.

What's wrong with this picture?

Another winery owner I'd interviewed last week was Evelyn Reyes-Umaña of Bodega del Sur Winery in Murphys. She'd boldly imposed a $3 tasting fee and has been happy with the results. "That cut down on the 21-year-old-birthday-party nightmare, and that's been great," Evelyn said.

Over the past few months, I've conducted in-depth interviews with more than 20 Mountain Wineries in the Sierra and Its Foothills, for the book I'm writing. About one-fourth charge some small fee for tasting. Three-fourths don't. They all should. I plan to speak up on this topic to the remaining wineries on my interview schedule.

Here's one reason why: when I left the discouraged winemaker and went to downtown Placerville, I stopped at Starbucks and ordered a latte. $3.45 and I didn't give a second's consideration before I forked that over.

What's wrong with THAT picture? Absolutely nothing. Looks like a sound business model to me.

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© 2010 Barbara Keck

Watch for my forthcoming book: "Mountain Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills". Publication date Spring 2011, Wine Appreciation Guild Publishing.

>>Send an email to Barbara (at) winebizpr.com if you want to be put on the notification list
when it is published

Treasured Wines from Ferrari-Carano at Crystal Bay Steakhouse


You know from past columns about the outstanding wine list at Crystal Bay Casino’s Steakhouse restaurant in Crystal Bay, NV. When you combine sommelier Patty Ruhl’s talents with her extensive wine industry contacts and the result is a WineMaker Dinner, clearly the event will be incredible.

The Steakhouse holds WineMaker Dinners throughout the year, so be sure to check their website for upcoming events. The Ferrari-Carano WineMaker dinner hosted earlier this summer was special, as the Carano family are Nevada natives who live in Reno, and have ownership in both the El Dorado and the Silver Legacy Casinos there. So this melding of high-end casino restaurant and the Ferrari-Carano high end wines was perfect.

Ferrari-Carano's 19 estate vineyards in four appellations total over 1400 acres, and the 1.1 millilon vines under cultivation are used to produce over 24 different wines. This review focuses on the 5 wines presented at the WineMaker Dinner. Prices quoted are winery prices.

The 2009 Fume Blanc was served to accompany a nice selection of passed appetizers. This wine is made of 100% Sauvignon Blanc grapes, and aged in a combination of old oak and stainless steel. There are melon and fig notes that predominate and reach through the crisp freshness of the wine. I liked the subtle oak character from the barrel ageing and felt that it added good complexity to the wine. 13.9% alcohol. $15 the bottle. And oh by the way, Rhonda Carano has a recipe on the Ferrari-Carano website for Spicy Lime Ginger Grilled Shrimp that would pair fantastically with this wine…

The 2008 Chardonnay, Sonoma County, was paired with pine nut crusted halibut filet with braised leek, fennel and white truffle oil. Made from 60 individually vinified lots, it’s a classic California chardonnay, which is to say, yummy. It has apple, pear, honey, butter cream and honeysuckle floral notes, and a great balance of fruit and caramel flavors. Did I taste marshmallow too? The toasted oak finish was nice. 13.9% alcohol. $23 the bottle.

2007 Merlot, Sonoma County, is a velvety wine with a nose of fresh cherries, pomegranate and rhubarb pie. You will pick up flavors of strawberry, brown sugar and crème brulee too. There is 3% Cabernet Sauvignon blended to assure a rounded flavor. It has a nice balance of fruit, tannin, and oak. 13.9% alcohol. $24 the bottle. The 2007 Merlot was paired by Crystal Bay Steakhouse Chef Geno Dugan with Merlot-marinated skinless Peking Duck breast, served with pommes frites and blueberry cassis sauce.

Tresor is a term you won’t hear commonly, but the Ferrari-Carano 2006 Tresor is indeed a treasure and that is the source of this fine wine’s name. It is a blend of the five classic Bordeaux varietals – Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, Merlot, Petit Verdot, and Cabernet Franc – from the best selections of Ferrari-Carano’s vineyards in Alexander and Dry Creek Valleys. The winemaker’s notes: “Delicious aromas of Bing cherries, blueberry preserves and an herbal, black tea leaf nuance combine with an elegant mid-palate of fresh-picked berry and roasted mocha notes. With a full bodied and richly-textured tannin profile, this wine’s upfront silkiness and roundness make for a delicious selection now and will drink well for 7-10 years.” 14.8% alcohol, $58 the bottle. Paired with Roast loin of lamb en croute, with fungi duxelle rapini.

Dessert was a dark chocolate cappuccino cake. The 2008 Eldorado Noir (Russian River Valley) had an aroma of rose petal, and berries. It is not too sweet, and despite its intensely aromatic nature, it is fresh and clean tasting. A limited release wine, blended from 100% Muscat grapes, $28 the half bottle. Only 11% alcohol!

The Crystal Bay Steakhouse is located at 14 State Highway 28, just at California/Nevada border. Reservations are suggested. 775 833 6333. For more information on the wines, go to http://www.ferrari-carano.com/
© 2010 Barbara Keck
For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in August 2010.

Watch for my forthcoming book: "Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills". Publication date early Summer 2011, Wine Appreciation Guild Publishing.
>>Send an email to Barbara (at) winebizpr.com
if you want to be put on the notification list
when it is published...





Drinking Well, Doing Good: Tahoe League for Charity Annual Event



The day was warm, the appetizers delicious, and the wines spectacular – hard to beat the Tahoe League for Charity 2010 event held at the home of Linda Davis on Dollar Point. With a string quartet to begin and jazz later in the afternoon, 150 members and guest attended this charitable organization’s annual fundraiser.

Tahoe League for Charity turned to Kali Kopley, owner of the wine bar Uncorked at 1750 Village East Road in The Village at Squaw Valley to help them select some wonderful summer wines for the occasion. The result was interesting and reasonably priced wines. You might consider stocking up on some of these wines for your own summer lawn parties.

It’s almost impossible to beat a nice Riesling for a summer wine, and the KUNG FU GIRL RIESLING, COLUMBIA VALLEY, Washington, is aromatic, smooth, vibrant & tasty. Think tangerine, apricot, wet stone, key lime, clove & nectarine. 12.5% alcohol. This Riesling is only $13/bottle.

PRAXIS DRY SRYAH ROSE, ALEXANDER VALLEY, California. A wonderful summer rose’! It’s a beautiful burnt salmon color with a floral, strawberry nose. Flavors of watermelon & guava are accented by a little spice & vanilla. The wine is dry & has bright acidity with a medium body. 14.2% alcohol. $12/bottle.

MANIFESTO SAUVIGNON BLANC, NORTH COAST, California. Gardenias & a rush of grapefruit. Lemon zest fill the nose, pineapple & mouthwatering sweet citrus comprise a lingering finish. The fruit comes from three vineyards in Suisun Valley, just east of Napa Valley. The winery donates a portion of bottling line proceeds to charity for worker housing, Latino education and to clean drinking water in the Napa Valley. 14.1% alcohol. $14/bottle.
Looking for some nice red wines for your dinner parties? Tahoe League for Charity members loved these, and it’s likely that you will too.

SEAN MINOR PINOT NOIR, CARNEROS, California. This pinot noir is medium-bodied with blueberry, cherry, plum & light toast flavors. On first taste, the wine displays these blue fruit tones that are balanced with the lingering spicy/earthy notes. The vanilla & toast nuances integrate well with the silky round tannins, which evolve into a lengthy finish. Sean Minor is A LONG TIME supporter of Autism and Autism research. The 14.5% alcohol is typical for a pinot noir. $18/bottle.


FLYING WINEMAKER ZINFANDEL, LODI, California. Cameron Hughes, a negotiant with a record of presenting fine, fine wines, said this so eloquently: “Lodi is to Zinfandel what Napa is to Cabernet. Lodi zins are big, powerful wines with great depth & complexity.” I agree. Fruit from old vines, some 100 years old, leads to a beautiful, intense dark berry flavor on the palate. This wine has good depth and complexity. 14.5% alcohol. $12/bottle.

Tempranillo should be on your “I must try this varietal” list. The TRUCHARD TEMPRANILLO from NAPA VALLEY is a good starter choice, not the best I’ve ever had, but good. Rich aromas of cassis, wild blueberry, & plum, with hints of black tea, tobacco, & cedar. On the palate- earth& anise with an under-layer of mocha. 13.9% alcohol, $16/bottle.

Last but not least, a Sierra Foothill wine, the EASTON CABERNET BLEND. Composed of predominately Syrah and Cabernet Sauvignon, this is a great everyday wine, for picnics, boating, lunch, apre-ski. Anytime you want a delicious glass of wine. 13.5 % alcohol, $14/bottle.

The primary focus of Tahoe League for Charity to benefit the communities of North Lake Tahoe, Incline and Truckee areas by providing scholarships to local students and grants to local nonprofit organizations. They meet monthly in Tahoe City. For more info, go to http://www.tahoeleagueforcharity.org/

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© 2010 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in July 2010.

Watch for my forthcoming book: "Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills". Publication date early Summer 2011, Wine Appreciation Guild Publishing.
>> Send an email to Barbara (at) winebizpr.com
if you want to be put on the notification list
when it is published...

Annual Soroptimist Wine Tasting at Tahoe-Donner: Calendar this for Next Year!


Yes, I was the one with the hand in the air bidding on 29 bottles of wonderful wines and a small refrigerator to put them in. That was just part of the fun at the annual Soroptomist International fundraiser, held at the Coyote Moon clubhouse in Truckee in early June. Attendees came from near and far to contribute to a worthy cause, all the while sipping interesting Sierra wines, paired with small plates from nearby restaurants.

(Photo: Phil and Jill Maddux of Lone Buffalo Vineyards, Auburn CA)

For this 36th annual event, wineries participating were Bantam Cellars, Brutacao Cellers, Busby Cellars, Karly Wines, Long Buffalo Vineyards, Nevada City Winery, Renaissance Vineyard & Winery, Secret Ravine, Sierra Vista Winery, Steele Wines and Truckee River Winery. Many of these wineries sell from their tasting rooms, and you’ll also find many at nearby restaurants and wine shops.

Bantam Cellars, an Amador County winery located in the Shenandoah Valley near Plymouth, CA, specializes in both Mediterranean varieties as well as Zinfandels. I enjoyed their 2008 Vermentino which is a nice wine for both casual sipping and also will pair well with lighter foods. It has an aroma with some minerality, but offers almond, pear and peach notes too. 12.5% alcohol. $14.00 a bottle at the tasting room, located at 10851 Shenandoah Road in Plymouth. http://www.bantamcellars.com/

Since I was enjoying the wines, I tasted Bantam’s 2007 Garth Cobb Select Primitivo, named for the winemaker. I agree with Jonna Cobb’s assessment that this is a “special bottle of wine, worthy of birthday and anniversary celebrations.” Yes, it has gooseberries, cherries and a nice soft middle to the mouth feel. 15.0% alcohol. $24.00 a bottle. By the way, their “Big Sister Winery” is Karly Winery. http://www.karlywines.com/

Lone Buffalo Vineyards, located in Placer County, presented their 2008 Where the Buffalo Roam, a Rhone-style blend produced this year from Syrah, Mourvedre, Grenache & Cinsault grapes The fruit for this wine is 1/3 estate, and the remainder is sourced from other Foothill grape growers. This is a very food-friendly wine. Winemaker’s notes are spot-on: “Concentrated but lively fruit, silky tannins, depth with a hint of spice, elegant and easy to drink!” 15.2% alcohol. $21 a bottle. The good news is that in the last 4 years, Lone Buffalo has grown from 100 case production to more than 1000 cases. You can visit them at 2682 Burgard Lane, Auburn. Many local Lake Tahoe restaurants carry their fine wines. http://www.lonebuffalovineyards.com/

Busby Cellars is a family owned vineyard and winery specializing in small lots of estate-grown varietals. It is the northern-most winery in the Fair Play viticultural region. Their 2008 Eldorado Chardonnay was slightly sweet, and very fresh tasting; I violated my own rule and had three tastes as it paired with many foods. 13.7% alcohol. $15 a bottle. http://www.busbycellars.com/

Renaissance Winery’s 2004 Mediterranean Red is a blend of 54% Grenache,26% Mourvedre, 20% Syrah. This classic Rhone blend tastes like a Chateauneuf, but of course grapes are sourced from North Yuba County. Winemaker’s notes: “Aromatically, very intense, complex brambly fruit with blackberry and raspberry notes. Bright, vibrant, and vigorous on the palate with a very long spicy, refreshing finish”. Enjoy it now or cellar it for several years. The winery and tasting room are located in Oregon House, (Yuba County) CA. 13.9% alcohol, $30 a bottle. http://www.renaissancewinery.com/

Soroptimist International began in 1921 in Oakland with 80 professional women. Today it is the world’s largest service organization for professional and executive businesswomen, with programs in the areas of economic and social development, education, environment, health, human rights & status of women, and international goodwill and understanding. Want to get involved? Call Truckee-Donner club president Lorna Leyton at 530 587 0826.


© 2010 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in June 2010.

Watch for my forthcoming book: "Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills". Publication date early Summer 2011, Wine Appreciation Guild Publishing.

Wine Programs Ahoy at Tahoe Yacht Club!


It’s such a welcoming place, filled with Tahoe nautical memorabilia, photos of beautiful boats, sailors, and so very conducive to enjoying a nice glass of wine. This is the Tahoe Yacht Club located in Tahoe City, and Commodore Andy Wagner encourages prospective members to tour and, by the way, he’d love to talk about wine. Andy is the mover behind the Club’s wonderful series of wine tastings and programs.

A recent event featured Rod Santos, owner of Wine Thieves, two retail stores in the East Bay. Their motto is “we find wine steals so you don’t have to”. Rod’s presentation, “A Coup for Consumers: Higher-end Wines at Bargain Prices,” verified that wine lovers can find good wines without breaking the budget.

It’s both good news and bad news that Wine Thieves has an extensive list of great finds. Good news for wine drinkers, and bad news for winemakers who ended up not being able to move recent vintages due to the recession.

Notes on The Wine Institute of California website outlined the situation: “During the recessionary 2009 economy, California vintners shipped 467.7 million gallons of California wine to the U.S. wine market, up a modest 0.2% compared to the 2008. The estimated retail value of these sales was $17.9 billion, down 3% from 2008 as consumers traded down to lower-priced wines. Wineries that were reliant on restaurant sales found that on-premise sales were off 6-9% as consumers dined more at home and business travel was curbed. Some wineries diverted inventory to off-premise retail accounts and many placed new emphasis on direct-to-consumer sales…”

Summary: there’s been a lot of pain in the winery, but a lot of pleasure in wine lovers’ wallets.

Tahoe Yacht Club members and guests tasted interesting examples of Wine Thieves finds.

The 2009 Robert Hall “Rose de Robles” is a blend of Grenache, Syrah, and Mouvedre (Paso Robles). Perhaps you think of Rose as a blush wine that can be almost sticky-sweet; this rose, far from that, is dry, juicy and sophisticated. Aromas of fresh raspberries, hint of tangerine. 13% alcohol. $8 per bottle WineThieves.com, list $14.

2009 Pinot Gris “Acrobat” from one of Oregon’s largest wineries, King Estate, is dry with nice citrus and apple tones. “Crisp entry with nice balance between acidity and residual sugar, round and full mid-palate, clean refreshing finish,” noted the winemaker. 12.5% alcohol $11 per bottle.

The Montepulciano “San Lorenzo”, 2003 from Umani Ronchi (Rosso Conero DOC, Italy) is a single vineyard, full bodied red wine made from 100% Montepulciano grapes grown in Mount Conero overlooking the Adriatic Sea, and aged 14 months in oak to provide a distinctive, subtle aroma and flavor. Finely structured, it pairs with roasts, game, aged cheese. At $10 the bottle, stock up, because it will age well in your cellar. Originally sold at $18 the bottle. 13.5% alcohol.

A great everyday wine is the 2007 “Rock Star” California red from Rock Wall winery. There’s a fascinating story behind this winery, which was started in 2008 by a daughter of the well-known Rosenblum wine family, and is housed in an old airplane hanger in Alameda, CA. This red blend is 45% Napa Syrah, 34% Tempranillo, 21% Cinsault. Aged in oak, flavors of dark berry fruit, violets and anise, with a hint of peppery spice, and 14.5% alcohol. $10 at WineThieves.com, $14 list.

The 2002 Melanson Cabernet Sauvignon “Matthew’s Block”, is from an 8 acre parcel on Pritchard Hill, Napa Valley. Only 73 cases were produced, and Wine Thieves has most of what’s left at $20 the bottle (originally $55 … pre-recession…). Harvested in 2002, aged in French Oak, and bottled in 2005, a classic California cab, nicely tannic. 14.2% alcohol.

Interested in a tour or membership in the Tahoe Yacht Club? Contact general manager Marianna Dye at (530) 581-4700 or stop by at 700 North Lake Blvd. 2nd Floor in Tahoe City.


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© 2010 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of
The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in August 2010.

Watch for my forthcoming book: "Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills". Publication date early Summer 2011, Wine Appreciation Guild Publishing.

The Essentials of Food, Wine Pairing as Taught by Chef Saad

Photo:Cuvee Corner Wine Blog

“If the pairing works, you’ll be in taste heaven.”


Who would like a glass of milk with their pizza? Blecch. Now you get the essence of food and wine pairing. This is the summer for you to experiment with opening your palate.

A few weeks ago, a keynote address given at the Wine Bloggers Conference featured Chef Jeffrey Saad. Chef Saad was the 2009 runner-up on season five of the TV show, “The Next Food Network Star.” He had a few tips about wine and food pairings, and then 300 bloggers converged on tables holding an assortment of new and old world style wines, each with a perfect pairing.

“Think of wine as an additional condiment,” said Chef Saad. French fries with ketchup – the condiment concept – helps you get the sense of what he means. “The whole idea of pairings is the balance of those tastes coming together.”

The ritual Chef Saad recommends to truly appreciate a wine and food pairing are: 1) sip the wine, 2) take a bite of the food, and 3) while the food is still on your tongue, take another sip of the wine. If the pairing works, you’ll be in taste heaven.

A few no-brainer pairing tips are these:

• The protein and fat in meats mean that the tannin in red wines always complement those foods.
• Pairing sweet with sweet always works, such as dessert with dessert wines.

• Aged cheeses go well with red wines, or try a soft creamy cheese with a Beaujolais.

• Red wines and chocolate, particularly dark chocolate. Try pairings with a Zinfandel, a wine from the southern Rhone area or a Grenache, syrah and mourvèdre blend.

• A brilliant pairing is an oloroso style of sherry with marcona almonds. You can find these almonds at Whole Foods. They are a bit pricy, but worth every penny.

• Artichokes and Grüner Veltliner.

• Roasted bell peppers with Cabernet.

• Whole roast pig, served perhaps with a tomatillo salsa? Try a Sangiovese or a Tempranillo.

If in doubt, go with geography. If you are in an Italian restaurant and uncertain, then order an Italian wine. “There’s a reason they grow up together,” Chef Saad says.

What wines can you look to for a palate-opening experience this summer?

Chef Saad gives this list below as an “all time safe no-brainer” list:

• Viognier. Wonderful with practically everything. But not steak.

• Dry Rosé . It has just enough acid, just enough fruit and a bit of a tannic nature.

• Champagne. Particularly off-dry champagne. Try a Prosecco with caviar. It’s a low alcohol wine, so it doesn’t get in the way of salt. And, it has a bit of sweetness.

• Barbera. This is one wine that is off the beaten track and surprising.

• Grüner Veltliner. It can pair with practically anything, so long as it is not a heavy food.

For more on Chef Saad’s food and wine pairings, visit http://jeffreysaad.com/.

What do you serve to a discerning group like wine bloggers? Chef Bear of the Marcus Whitman Hotel in Walla Walla, Wash., prepared some wonderful bites, matched with interesting wines suppliled by Winebow. The list:

Kris Pinot Grigio 2009, Tre Venezie, Italy, served with spot prawn salsa with white peach and peppercorn caramel.

Cousino Macul Sauvignon Grist 2009, Maipo Valley, Chile, paired with a chicken skewer with white balsamic vanilla marinade, on chayote slaw with micro cilantro.

Tilia Torrontes 2009, Mendoza, Argentina, paired with Phyllo bouchee with monteillet chevre, pistachio and chestnut honey.

Yealands Sauvignon Blanc 2009, Marlborough, New Zealand, served with gravlox on endive, garnished with crème fraiche, ikura and fried capers.

Clean Slate Riesling 2009, Mosel, Germany, paired with Ahi Poke, and white soy on an apricot namusu.

Rioja Vega Reserva 2004, La Rioja, Spain, served with pork belly and pea vines with saffron scented stock.

There were more. I could go on, but I’m still on the treadmill trying to work off the calories...


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© 2010 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of
The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in July 2010.

Watch for my forthcoming book: "Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills". Publication date early Summer 2011, Wine Appreciation Guild Publishing.



Why you should make your alcohol % easy to find

It's a pet peeve of mine. I write a weekly column on wine for the Tahoe Weekly, which might not have the clout of The Pour in the New York Times, but still, lots of people (people with money) read my column and buy wine. I am limited to 600 words, and today I just hit "delete" for reviews of two wines where I couldn't find the alcohol content easily on an internet search. I had plenty of other options for those 600 words; who could be bothered search-search-searching for information that should be readily accessible on a wine?

I always include alcohol percentages in my wine reviews; that's my own personal policy and my way of encouraging responsible wine drinking. So, perhaps I should have paid more attention and taken more thorough notes while I was tasting those 12 wines at the charity event. But it was a warm summer day, the appetizers appealed, the string quartet was sweet and the sailboats were gliding on the lake. I took some notes, yes, but I figured I could use the internet to fill in the technical info gaps.

Surprise!

Search search search, snooth, wines.com, wine-searcher, KL etc.... I could find no notes of alcohol content for two of the ten wines. So, bye bye. Tough luck.

I don't mean to cheat my readers out of information on a good wine. However, I write under deadline and I have lots of other stuff going on in my life (like research for my book on Moutain Wineries of the Sierra and Its Foothills, publ date April 2011 by the way). I am not going to chase this information for more than five minutes. When in doubt, as the old English professor said, leave it out.

If you are a winery, winemaker or wine sales rep, and your internet search on your wine does not easily yield information on its alcohol level, you are missing the mark. More and more consumers are concerned about what they drink and what they serve to guests.


California Highway Patrol gives a lot of citations for DUI's on Lake Tahoe's meandering roads every winter. Summer too. So help me, the time-pressed writer, out. But beyond that ... it's important information for consumers. Make it readily available. Just do it.

Thanks.