Winemaker Dinners at Baxter’s Northstar – Special Feature, Wines of Burgundy from Kermit Lynch

It would be difficult to find a better host for a winemaker dinner than Joseph Nase, Director of Wines at Baxter’s Bistro, Northstar-at-Tahoe. The winemaker dinner series he hosts are justifiably famous and packed with patrons, and Chef de Cuisine Michael Plapp contributes outstanding dishes for pairings with wines at the dinner.

(Joseph Nase, left; Steven Ledbetter, right)

I attended the winemaker dinner that featured the wines of Kermit Lynch, a famous purveyor of the wines of Burgundy, with a shop located in Berkeley and sales offices nationwide. Mr Lynch has been named Wine professional of the Year by the James Bearch Foundation, and has been given medals by the government of France, including the Chevalier de la Legion d’Honneur. His book, Adventures on the Wine Route, is award-winning.

To begin the dinner, Stephen Ledbetter of Kermit Lynch, chose a group of rose wines to tickle the palate. We tasted the following:


Domaine de Fontsainte Corbieres “Gris de Gris” – 50% Grenache Gris, 25% Cinsault, 25% Carignan


Domaine de Poujol Coteaux du Languedoc Rose – 50% Cinsault, 30% Syrah, 15% Grenache, 5% Carignan


Chateau Trinquevedel Tavel Rose – 50% Grenache Noir, 20% Cinsault, 20% Clairette, 10% Syrah, Mourvedre, Bourboulenc, Grenache Blanc. A note on the Trinquevedel’s rose from Mr Ledbetter: “The last 10% of grapes is somewhat typical for the southern Rhone. Historically farmers planted a range of varietals (all allowed under the French laws) to insure they had a large enough harvest. That is, in the event that one varietal didn’t ripen properly or was destroyed by the weather (hail and strong winds are a recurring problem), they would have other grapes to use in the final blend.”


The dinner began with Local Oysters Three Ways (broiled, smoked, raw), paired with a 2007 Aligote, Bouzeron, A & P De Villaine. This is a high acid white wine featuring Aligote, another white grape that’s used to make dry white wines in the Burgundy region of France. The most famous white grape from Burgundy is chardonnay.


The next wine pairings were matched to the first course, a Clover Farms Rabbit Dijonnaise served with escargot and with Gary Romano’s Baby Carrots. (Gary Romano is an organic farmer producing wonderful produce in the Placerville area). The 2007 Morgan, Cru Beaujolais, Breton, was almost aromatic, hints of cardamom. The second wine, a 2007 Cote de Brouilly, Cru Beaujolais, Chateau Thivin, is a high acid wine, with bright fruit. It is terrific with food, and would match well with fish too. Taste of tobacco, pepper, black cherry. According to Mr. Ledbetter, this wine is a great value at about $19/bottle, so search for it!


The second course, sautéed frog legs with parlsley coulis and garlic flan, was paired with two wines. The first, 2004 Chambolle Musigny, Premier Cru, Domaine Bertheau. Is a sophisticated wine made from pinot noir grapes, with a deep floral structure and a fine fruit-forward nature. The 2006 Morey St. Denis, A.C., Meo Camuzet, had wonderful earthy tones and is reminiscent of the village wines you’ll find in Burgundy. (Hope you’ll do the Burgundy wine walk with me in July 2010 and taste these village wines for yourself!)


The third course, a Muscovy duck breast served with Romano’s Russian Kale, beluga lentils, Foie-shallot soubis sauce, was paired with two wines, both of them dark and spicy for the perfect accompaniment to this rich dish. The 2006 Nuit-St.-Georges, Premier Cru, Bousselots, Chevillon was the first wine, and the 2006 Gevrey-Chambertin, Premier Cru, Cherbaudes, Domaine Lucien Boillot was surprisingly mellow; it is often a very powerful wine.


Finishing up the wine-food pairing was the dessert course, Champagne Grape Clafouti, paired with a low alcohol (7%) Vin due Bugey-Cerdon, La Cueille, Patrick Bottex.


A lovely beginning to this over-the-top evening was a short seminar that Joseph Nase and Stephen Ledbetter gave on Chablis. We tasted four wonderful Chablis…. But we are out of space!

Look for the next winemaker dinner series at Baxter’s at Northstar, listed on Northstar’s website http://www.northstarattahoe.com/. Or call (530) 543-3132 for information.

To obtain any of the wines mentioned above, or other burgundian wines, contact Kermit Lynch via their website (http://www.kermitlynch.com/) or call their Berkeley location at 510 524 1524.


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© 2009 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in November 2009.

September Delight: Grand Tasting at Northstar

In the world of wine, what could be grander than a Grand Tasting? The culmination of the Autumn Food & Wine Weekend held at the Village at Northstar is a chance to discover new wineries and sample their latest vintage or newest varietal. Paired with gourmet delights from Tahoe’s newest restaurants and most exquisite caterers, you’ll want to put this on your calendar for September 2010.

Life is short, eat dessert first. That’s why I want to jump right into my adoration for Deerfield Ranch Winery’s 2005 Gold, which is a Select Late Harvest Sauvignon Blanc. Their literature calls it “Nectar of the Gods,” and I have to agree. The winery is located in the heart of Sonoma Valley. This wine is made from Santa Barbara grapes from the Lucas & Lewellen Vineyards in Los Alamos Valley. This is a scrumptious dessert wine, with a beautiful golden hue, aroma of ripe apricots, dried peaches, tropical flowers. The taste is divine, not overly sweet but rich. Only 583 cases made, and it only is sold in a 375 ml size. 12.5% alcohol. $50/bottle.

The Salvestrin Retaggio, a “Super Tuscan” blend is comprised of 45% Sangiovese, 30% merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 5% Petit Syrah. It’s a dark purple wine, with aroma of blackberry, currant, spice. The taste carries through the aroma notes, with a well-balanced fruit quality a bit of oak, pepper, earth. Reviewer and critics, The Wine Spies, notes that “present here is that classic subtle orange zest spiciness that you only find in exceptional Italian wines”. The finish is long and dry. This wine is made by this St. Helena, CA, winery as a tribute to the family’s legacy in the wine business, explained third-generation winemaker Rich Salvestin. Rataggio means “legacy” in Italian. The winery makes only 3600 cases total, and only 800 cases of the Rattaggio. 14.8% alcohol. $34/ bottle.

Robert Stemmler’s 2006 Pinot Noir, Russian River, from the Nugent Vineyard, has aroma of blackberry, cherry and a taste of blackberry, cherry, chocolate and a nice minerality too. A silky texture, with nice rich tannins. It takes a while to open up, but has a long and sweet finish. 14.1% alcohol. $40/ bottle.

Oliver Hill Wines poured their 2006 Pinot Noir, Oakville. Nice balanced, with a taste of tart cherry, and a bit different of a Pinot Noir – I liked it a lot. Aged 24 months in French oak gave a nice structure with hints of raspberry too. Their vineyard, according to owner/winemaker Jerry Hill, backs up to the river just north of Yountville, and this gives a cooling affect to the vineyard very evening, resulting in a pinot grape with a uniqueness. Of 450 cases total production at Oliver Hill, only 63 cases of this pinot were produced. 14.9% alcohol, $20/bottle.

Gruet’s 2002 Grand Rose is a wine that hails from New Mexico, and the vineyard is said to be one of the oldest vineyards in the US. This is a Brute Methode Champenoise. In color, it is a beautiful salmon pink. The floral aroma has hints of cherry, apple, almond. In taste, the Pinot Noir grapes dominate the flavor, by the 90% Chardonnay gives this Brut a wonderful finesse. This is a limited production wine, of 280 cases. 12% alcohol. $32/bottle.

Rombauer poured their 2008 Chardonnay, Carneros. I confess that this is one of my true loves in California wines – big, oakey, fruit forward. I’ve been known to buy Rombauer Chardonnay by the case and give bottles as gifts. So it’s hard to be objective. This wine has been called “the benchmark California Chardonnay”. So yummy, lovely fruit -- pear, pineapple and tropical fruit—and balanced with creamy, toasted vanilla. A nice acidity, and fruit that lingers on a medium finish. 14.4% alcohol. $32/bottle

The Autumn Food & Wine Weekend is held at the Village at NorthStar each September.

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© 2009 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in October 2009.

Luxury wine vending machine increases wine sales for Goss Wine Bar, Tokyo

info via CrunchGear by Serkan Toto on 10/15/09

"It’s not really a secret: Japan loves vending machines. So it’s not really surprising this newest (and quite unique) model is made in Nippon, too: A vending machine that lets you buy luxury wines through a pre-paid card. The machine is supposed to soften the negative effects the current recession has for wine lovers.

The vending machine is operated by the Goss Wine Bar in Ginza, Tokyo’s poshest neighborhood. All customers need to do is to insert said pre-paid card, select a bottle of wine among 24 different kinds and watch how the wine flows into their glasses.

Reportedly, customers enjoy the fact that they can actually see the bottle before they drink the wine and that they can now taste expensive wines in smaller quantities.The Goss Wine Bar claims the number of customers has risen by 20% in September (when compared to September 2008)."

Squaw Valley Village: September Alpen Wine Festival Showcases Good Wines for a Good Cause

The 21st Annual Alpen Wine Festival, held in September, is a not-to-be-missed event for wine aficionados and those who want to learn more about wine. Held every year at the Village at Squaw Valley and hosted the great wine bar there, Uncorked, the event helps raise money for The Huega Ceter for Multiple Sclerosis (MS). The Huega Center teaches people with MS how to use exercise to help manage their life with this chronic disease.

More than 40 wineries poured samples in the village setting, surrounded by Squaw’s beautiful Alpine-like scenery. There were so many wonderful wines to taste and enjoy, but here are a few that we found noteworthy.

Grant Family Winery’s California Tempranillo was a standout! This varietal has been a recent darling of the West Coast wine industry, and long a favorite of those who love wines from Spain. Jon Grant, winemaker, produced his tempranillo from grapes grown in the Madder Lake Vineyard near Clear Lake in Lake County, CA. Dark purple in hue, this tempranillo features aroma of plum, leather, mineral, spice, and a taste of complex berry, cherry and mineral. Bold and balanced tannin on the palate. Only 150 cases produced. $24/bottle.

The Alpen Cellars Winery poured a 2007 Pinot Noir with a yummy aroma and a lovely jammy taste. Located in Trinity County, this mountain winery grows early maturing vinifera grapes such as White Riesling, Gewurztraminer, Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. The 2007 Pinot Noir is a great red wine for dinner with pasta, chicken, red meat, cheese. Aroma of black cherries, plum and black pepper. Taste of cherries, cranberries. 13.5% alcohol. Approx $17/bottle.

Chatom Vineyards is located in the breathtaking Esmeralda Valley of Calaveras county, a short distance from Murphys in the Sierra Foothills. The 2005 Gitano-Sangiovese is made from 100% estate grown grapes, and the result is a taste of spice, plum, raspberries, and a hint of anise and chocolate. I enjoyed the way this wine lingered with an herbal finish too, and the spice persisted. 14.9% alcohol. Only 812 cases produced. $16/bottle.

Andrew Geoffrey Vineyards made only 1700 cases of their 2005 Diamond Mountain District Cabernet Sauvignon. For those who like a complex wine with a strong tannic backbone, you’ll enjoy this peppery-tasting high alcohol wine. Their estate vineyard is located atop Diamond Mountain in the Diamond Mountain District sub-appellation of the Napa Valley. John Gibson, winemaker, has blended the finest lots produced from the varietals grown in the vineyard to produce a sophisticated and balanced age-able wine. 15.8% alcohol. $75/bottle 92 points Robert Parker.

Stark Wine poured their Damino Vineyard 2007 Viognier, with grapes sourced from the Sierra Foothills AVA. It has aroma of peach and pear, but the honeysuckle is what struck my nose as truly aromatic. Taste of tropical fruit. Winery owner Jennifer Stark and her husband Christian Stark, the winemaker, pride themselves on using Sierra Foothills grapes to produce fullbodied wines that are immediately drinkable but also have extended aging potential. 14.5% alcohol. $25/ bottle. Only 208 cases produced, so contact them soon!

Truchard Vineyards treated us to a glass of their 2007 Chardonnay. This Napa winery, established in 1974 in the Carneros area, produces Chardonnay that benefit from the marine soils and cooler temperatures of Carneros. This 2007 chardonnay has an intense fruit aroma of tropical fruit, lemon, vanilla and spice and flavor of honey, green apple and fresh pear. This complex wine has great acidity, minerality and a finish of toasted oak. 14.1% alcohol. $30/bottle

The Alpen WineFest is held each year in late August or early September in the Village at Squaw Valley. Did I mention that it is a dog-friendly event?

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© 2009 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in September 2009.

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El Dorado Wineries - Proactive on Water Conservation

From time to time, representatives of winery associations will give a glimmer as to the status of that region's water issues. Jolaine Collins works with the El Dorado Winery Association, and her quick report is that several El Dorado wineries are proactive with sustainable farming practices, including water conservation.



"In the Placerville area, Boeger Winery, the region’s largest grape grower and winery, works with the El Dorado Irrigation district on using electronic probes to monitor the vines’ water needs," Jolaine noted. "Greg Boeger told me that many of the region's wineries employ this irrigation management system to monitor and predict their vineyards' water needs on a weekly basis, and mentioned that both Boeger and neighboring Madrona Vineyards have specific vineyards that sometimes require as little as one application of water per year. "



In the south part of El Dorado County, the Fair Play wine region is faced with an even tighter water supply than its neighbors to the north, she said. "Without water storage facilities, Fair Play’s local water agency depends on Mother Nature for the south county's water allotment."



The El Dorado Winery Association includes 29 wineries, the majority of them family owned. Growing grapes in hundreds of microclimates from 1,200 to 3,500 feet, the county contains more than 2,000 acres of vines, and is home to approximately 50 wineries. El Dorado was designated an American Viticultural Area (AVA) in 1983.



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You can read more about water issues in the sister blog of winebiznews,
http://water-for-wine.blogspot.com

Hyatt (Incline Village, NV) Winemaker Dinners: A Best-of-Class Experience

A brilliant young winemaker and experienced Chef de Cuisine, brought together in harmonious combination by a talented sommelier – nothing could be quite as perfect as this kind of evening orchestrated at the Lone Eagle Grille at the toney Hyatt Regency resort in Incline Village, NV.

We’re talking about the fabulous winemaker dinners here, and the sommelier Kristi Snyder is the knock-your-socks-off hostess with the moistest. This summer we experienced Kristi’s hospitality first hand, as winemaker Nicholas de Luca of Dierberg Estate Vineyards poured wines that paired so perfectly with the dishes of chef Mark May that writing about the experience is like returning to a food-wine-pairing dream.

Throughout the year, the Lone Eagle Grille is a place sought out for its fine food and its fantastic wine list, all enjoyed with fantastic views of Lake Tahoe. We’ll talk more about the wine list built by Kristi Snyder and her philosophy of making wine accessible in a later column, but for now, picture yourself in a cozy corner room of the Grille, surrounded by great food and great wine and 30 other guests.

The wines featured were from the Dierberg Estate Vineyards. The Dierberg vineyard is located near the Pacific Coast in Santa Barbara County, and they produce incredible Chardonnay and Pinot Noir; owners Jim and Mary Dierberg focus the Dierberg label on the delicate and elegant Burgundy varieties. The nearby Star Lane Vineyard, also acquired by the Dierberg’s in 1996, is in the most eastern corner of the Santa Ynez Valley; this notably warmer terroir produces robust and powerful Bordeaux varieties.

Winemaker Nicholas de Luca brings his on-the-job experience to these wines from background at Cline Cellars, Fisher, several crushes in New Zealand, and Byington, in the Santa Cruz Mountains among other stops in a nonstop climb to the ranks of great young winemakers.

As guests mingled with the winemaker and sommelier, the Star Lane Sauvignon Blanc 2007 was poured. This refreshing wine with aroma of citrus and a taste of grapefruit was served at the perfect temperature – frankly, a rarity in my wine tasting experience, as most whites are served far too cold! The correctness of the temperature allowed the wild spring flowers, gooseberries and mandarin orange flavors to manifest too . !3.6% alcohol. $20 bottle/winery, cellar for up to 6 years.

Chef May presented a first course of sautéed soft shell crab, served on a bed of mache lettuce and finished with beets and brown butter at the side. The Dierberg Chardonnay 2006 was a full bodied Chardonnay with bright acidity and, with its wonderful citrus characteristic, a perfect accompaniment to the crab. Grapes sourced from the Santa Maria vineyard result in deep tangelo, grapefruit and lemon grass aromas, with a touch of hazelnut. 14.6% alcohol. $32 bottle/winery, and will hold well for 5 years.

For my palate, the yummiest wine came next – the Dierberg Santa Maria Valley Pinot Noir 2006. Aroma of blackberry, a touch of white pepper, tobacco. Mild tannin in the middle, and a great finish. Winemaker de Luca noted that this wine is a bit of a lighter style Pinot than what Dierberg is generally known to produce, but said that “the wine we make needs to reflect the wildness of the vineyard, and we then take care of the fruit from that point forward.” This wine has overtones of sage, with delicate aromas of tea leaf, raspberry and forest floor. The 2006 Dierberg, aged in 75% new French oak for 17 months, then lightly fined with egg whites and bottled unfiltered, has 14.9% alcohol, $42 bottle/winery; it can be cellared for 10 years. It was incredible with the Grilled Niman Ranch pork tenderloin, prepared with blackberries and quinoa.

The third course, roasted prime striploin with seared goose liver, grilled zucchini and green peppercorn sauce, was paired with the Star Lane Cabernet Sauvignon 2005. This is a beautifully balanced cabernet, with light tannin, with tiers of blackberry, currant, and herbs, and is truly reflective of the love of the owners for wines from Bordeaux. The hallmark of this Santa Ynez Valley vineyard, the notes of sage brush and chaparral, are present in this wine. $42 bottle/vineyard.

The meal finished with an exquisite dark chocolate hazelnut torte served with plum compote and cassis. It was served with the Star Lane Syrah 2004, with its aroma of ripe black fruits, and taste of plum, black berry, lavender and violet. A full-bodied Syrah full of character and depth; $31 bottle/average retail.

The Lone Eagle Grille is part of the many lovely features of the Hyatt Regency at Incline Village, located at 111 Country Club Drive, Incline Village, Nevada, USA 89451. Reservations are recommended, and are a must for the winemaker dinners: 775.886.6899 Go to http://loneeaglegrille.com/wine.html for more information.

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© 2009 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in September 2009.

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Elegant yet Unpretentious: Wine matched to Great Food at Soule Domain

Soule Domain in Kings Beach is the place to take a date for a very special meal, to celebrate a birthday or anniversary with friends and family, and to sample wines from a wonderful list of reasonably priced wines from some of the more interesting appellations in California. Charlie Soule is the heart of the restaurant, and his chef motto of “Buy local, cook global, eat universal” extends to the wine list as well.

Soule Domain sets the mood for an intimate exploration of wine and food pairings in the lovely log cabin environment with exposed rafters, a high roof, heirloom furnishings and vintage photos from around the lake. Subdued music – cool jazz or classical – sets the tone for an elegant evening.

Charlie’s philosophy as a chef is to work from good fresh products, preferably using local organics that are naturally raised. He specializes in unpretentious foods, prepares dishes that people understand and relate to, and his choice of wines is in line with that. He searches out wineries that are smaller, “family owner operated business like ourselves”, and if the grapes are sustainably grown, “that’s better yet”. A proponent of nearby wineries, such as those in Amador and El Dorado counties, Charlie says they “all have a lot to offer”.

From his wine list, Charlie Soule selected 3 whites and 3 reds for our wine-food pairing experience.

The first, a Swanson Pinot Grigio, Napa, was paired with an Ahi crudo tartare with olive tapenade . The wine is crisp and minerally, its slightly-astringent quality nicely balancing the food. Long before it was fashionable Swanson Vineyards has been making Estate Pinot Grigio. The fruit, sourced primarily from their Oakville vineyard, yields a wine that gives an aroma of citrus and guava, and the rich mouth-feel reveals more citrus and some pear. 13.6% alcohol.

Charlie also suggested a Sobon Estate Viognier to accompany the Ahi or any fish course, for that matter. Aroma of jasmine, lily of the valley, lavendar, Bazooka bubblegum, and a full-body taste featuring peach with a hint of minerality. 14.1% alcohol. Located in Plymouth, Amador County appellation.

Gold Notes’ Chardonnay originates in the Fair Play growing area of El Dorado County. It was beautifully paired with a scallop appetizer prepared with a white wine reduction of lemon, butter and basil.. Charlie Soule not only enjoys the Gold Note wines, but he has huge respect for the Winemaker/Owner of Gold Note, Kevin Foley. Gold Note makes small quantities of rich, complex wines, and the Chardonnay is lovely. It’s nicely oakey, a nice tannin on the front palate, well-balanced and crisp. Hints of citrus, pineapple, pear. 14.3% alcohol.

The first of the red wines selected was a 2007 Laetitia Pinot Noir, Arroyo Grande Valley- Monterey Coast. This is a somewhat young but robust Pinot Noir, but it opens up beautifully after 15 minutes or so and delivers magnificent flavor of spice, dark fruit, and an earthiness that went well with the pairing of duck salad finished with a sesame soy vinaigrette. A medium finish, and 14.1% alcohol. Charlie Soule considers this an excellent value in a pinot. We agree.

Also with the duck, a good choice would be the 2006 Gold Note Petit Sirah, which is fruit forward and a soft, and aromatic wine with hints of chocolate, black pepper, and citrus zest. 14.8% alcohol.

Truckee River Winery’s Zinfandel is what some might call a fruit-bomb. Absolutely luscious, and perfect with the lamb ravioli dish. We’ve written about this wine before… grapes sourced from the Gribaudo Vineyard-Lodi, only 250-300 cases produced. 14.3% alcohol. Get it while it lasts!

Soule Domain is located at 9983 Stateline Rd in Kings Beach, CA , and is open 7 nights everyday but Thanksgiving. Reservations are suggested, as this intimate and charming restaurant seats only 44; call (530) 546-7529.

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© 2009 Barbara Keck

For more information on dining and the wide range of activities around Lake Tahoe, see the online version of The Tahoe Weekly. This article appeared in my column "It's Grape" in September 2009.

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